Thursday, September 26, 2013

Car Detailing Tips That Shine


(from: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZw1Oij5ux4)

Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Getting Rid of Perfume Smell in My Car

If you have recently bought a pre-owened vehicle, one of the first things you would notice is the vehicle’s distinct odor. New cars have this shiny, unspoiled, just-unwrapped smell to them, unlike second-hand cars. The smell of your second hand car may not be altogether unpleasant, as some car owners are very particular about the air fresheners that they use. But getting rid of perfume smells, which can irritate some individuals can be tricky.
However, if you are allergic to perfumes, car fresheners, and other strong artificial odors, you might want to deodorize your car first before taking it out on its first joy ride. Some people are so sensitive to these smells that they end up getting hives or irritated throats or bad headaches after spending just a few minutes inside the vehicle. You might not be able to fully enjoy your new acquisition if you keep getting annoyed by the strong scent permeating the interior.

Simple steps to deodorize your car

Getting rid of  perfume smell inside your vehicle is actually pretty easy. While the odors may have already soaked into the very material of the car, you can still do something to significantly reduce the old smell and replace it with a car freshener or perfume of your choice. Or you can simply just do away with artificial odor products altogether.
Here’s what you can do:
  • Air out the vehicle. If you have recently bought your car and are conscious of how it smells, it is a bad idea to take it out on a long drive immediately. Not only do you have to get used to the feel of the car, you also need to eliminate the odor that has been bothering you since day one. Park your car somewhere clean and dry and leave the windows rolled down, halfway though.
  • Clean out the interior. There might be bits of food or trash that has been left inside the nooks and crannies of your new vehicle. Check the glove box and beneath the seats to see if other things are also causing the annoying odor.
  • Put a few pieces of charcoal briquette in a shallow pan and leave them inside your car for a day or two. Activated charcoal can pick up a lot of strong odors, leaving you with a fresh-smelling interior.
  • Sprinkle a generous amount of baking soda on the car seats and upholstery. Leave them for a few hours. Then proceed to vacuum everything up.
  • Shampoo, steam, and condition the upholstery. If the perfume has been in constant use throughout the car’s lifespan, the odor molecules would have been buried deep into the fabric. You need to wash everything out and clean them thoroughly to eliminate the odor completely. If you are not satisfied with your own work, consult a professional detailer about how else to get rid of the smell.
  • Pick out an odor eliminating product and let it sit inside your car for a couple of hours before driving out. Only when you have completely eliminated all traces of the former perfume can you use your own brand of car freshener. Smells mixing together in such a small space can really produce disturbing results.

(from: http://ht.ly/padX7)

Monday, September 23, 2013

Top 11 Car Detailing Secrets

By: 


Taking care or your car's appearance doesn't qualify as vanity, it's smart vehicle ownership. You can hire a professional auto detailer to care for your car for $100 to $500 -- or you can swipe their secrets, do it yourself and save some dough.
There are a few professional organizations for detailers, like the National Association for Professional Detailing & Reconditioning (NAPDR) and the Professional Detailers Association, where you can find references for local detailers, but membership in either or any organization does not guarantee competence. If you're going to hire a detailer, ask a lot of questions, ask for references and to see sample work, and agree to a price in writing before the detailing work begins.
"There are no secrets in this business anymore," said NAPDR Membership Chairman Randy Lowe, who also owns Randy's Custom Detail in Salem, Ore. With the free flow of information on the internet, do-it-yourselfers have access to all of the tools and tricks of the trade available to the pros.
If you choose to detail your own ride, be prepared to spend a little bit of money gathering the proper tools and materials. You may already have most of the right stuff handy in your garage; if you must gather everything from scratch, you might spend from $30 to $100 or more, depending on how extensive you want your detail job to be.
The most important material that you'll need is already in your tool kit. For Lowe, the secret ingredient is hard work and elbow grease. "Good detailing is 90% application and 10% product," he said. "The best detailer can get decent results with decent products, but the worst detailer can't get great results even with great products."
There are few automotive maintenance chores that are more satisfying, accessible to all skill levels and truly beneficial for your car than a good detail job.
We've collected the top secrets that will help you to get professional results, make your detailing more fun, more successful and easier.
Secret #1: Use Two Buckets to Wash
Detailers know that the two bucket method is the best way to get your exterior clean. Use one bucket to hold your clean suds, and another bucket to hold clean water. Before you dip your cleaning mitt into the clean suds, rinse it off in the clean water bucket and wring it dry. Then, you're always putting a clean mitt into the clean suds that will go on your car. If you only use one bucket, you're just moving dirt off of your car, into your suds and back onto your car. Some pros have started using the Grit Guard insert, a $9.99 tray that helps sediment settle to the bottom of your wash bucket, instead of getting stirred up in the water and recollected on your wash mitt.
Secret #2: Join the Microfiber Revolution
We're living the microfiber revolution. Pro detailers use color-coded, task-specific microfiber cloths and towels for greater efficiency, lower friction and scratching and easier washing, rinsing and drying. Mike Pennington, director of training and consumer relations for Meguiars, emphasizes that it's important to wash your microfiber as a separate load, not mixed in with the regular laundry and rags. Microfiber will trap the lint from cotton towels, defeating the purpose of the wash. Use very little detergent and skip the fabric softener, which will coat the fibers and inhibit microfiber's qualities. Double up on the rinse cycle, and your microfiber will perform at its best. Remove any labels and stitching before you use your towels to avoid scratching. And remember, you get what you pay for -- those cheapo packs of microfiber from the warehouse store are not nearly as good as the ones you can find at online specialty stores.
Secret #3: Detail Your Trim First
This tip comes from Jim Dvorak, a product specialist at Mothers Polish. He suggests using a trim protectant/restorer like Mothers' Back to Black before waxing your paint. Wash and dry your vehicle, then apply the trim protectant. The product will repel polish and wax that might otherwise stain your trim. Some pro detailers use masking tape to protect the trim during waxing -- this application can help save time and cleanup.
Secret #4: Use a Buffer to Apply Product, a Towel to Remove
Consumers sometimes get confused by the name of the tool, and use a power buffer to remove wax or polish from the painted surfaces of their cars. A buffer can leave erratic swirl marks in your clear coat and paint if used to remove product, that's not what it's for. Use the buffer to apply wax, and then use a soft, dry cloth to remove it. You'll avoid burning the paint or damaging the clear coat, and you'll wind up with a thin, even coat of wax.
Secret #5: Get a Dual Action Polisher
For just a little bit more than you'd spend on a good direct drive polisher and an orbital polisher, you can get the perfect blend of both tools with a dual action polisher like the Flex XC 3401 VRG, which retails for around $280. Based in Stuttgart, Germany, Flex has been making tools since 1922, and has been building dedicated auto finish polishers since 1988. The XC 3401 VRG is detailer Randy Lowe's favorite tool for exterior finishes. He says that it will handle 90% of the polishing chores you will encounter. Meguiars' Dual Action Polisher ($149) is a little more consumer friendly, and a little less expensive than the Flex. It doesn't have the forced rotation, which keeps the tool moving even under a heavy load. Forced rotation is a great feature for an expert who knows how to use it; in inexperienced hands, it can do more harm than good.
Secret #6: Use a Clay Bar System
This secret may be out of the bag already, but it's such a good one that it bears repeating. There's no better way to remove surface contaminants from paint than with a good clay bar system. Pros have been using clay for years, and consumer versions have been on the market for at least a decade. A good clay bar system includes a spray lubricant, usually a detailing spray, an 80 - 100 gram clay bar, and a towel. According to Mike Pennington from Meguiars, after washing and drying your car, you rub the clay bar on the paint to remove "bonded environmental contaminants" without removing paint thickness. The smoother paint surface takes polishing and wax better, and extends the life of subsequent treatments. Meguiars' Smooth Surface Clay Kit retails for $19.99; Mothers' California Gold Clay Bar Paint Saving System is $19.95.
Secret #7: Use a Plastic Grocery Bag to Check the Paint Surface
Hers's another tip from Jim Dvorak at Mothers. Once you have cleaned your paint's surface of contaminants with a clay bar system or other cleaner, it's important to make sure that you've really removed all the dirt before you seal the surface with wax. Put your hand in an ordinary thin plastic grocery bag, and run it over the surface of the paint. The plastic bag will amplify any bumps and imperfections, so that you can go back and detail again. Keep rechecking until the surface is totally smooth, then polish (if necessary) and apply protective wax.
Secret #8: Dry Your Glass in Two Directions
Here's a great tip from Meguiars' Pennington: Dry your glass in two directions. Get into the habit of doing your final wipe of interior glass in a horizontal direction, and the final wipe on the exterior in a vertical direction. Then, when you find the inevitable streak, you'll instantly know whether it's on the inside (horizontal) or the outside (vertical) of the glass. You'll get perfectly clear glass without jumping in and out of the vehicle chasing that streak.
Secret #9: Brush It First
Pennington says that when it comes to cleaning interiors, mechanical agitation is always better than chemical intervention. That means that your first line of attack is a good brush. For instance, before vacuuming your carpeting, de-mat the fibers by using a stiff nylon brush. Then, when you vacuum, the dirt will be free in the carpet, and will be much easier to extract. The same goes for door panels, though you'll want to use a gentler brush. If more aggressive cleaning is necessary, start gently, use a gentle solution of fabric cleaner, and dry with a soft cotton cloth.
Secret #10: Make Static Electricity Your Friend
To remove stubborn pet hair from your cars carpets, put on a pair of latex gloves (readily available in boxes of 100 from any home improvement store) and then rub your hand over the carpet. The static electricity caused by the latex glove will help bring the pet hair up to the surface of the carpet for easy removal by hand or vacuum.
Secret #11: Leave the Headliner Alone
According to Pennington, there's one part of the car that detailers avoid if at all possible: the headliner. Even a little bit of agitation can cause the glue in a headliner to fail, causing way more problems than it is worth. Keep your ministrations to a minimum when it comes to cleaning, brushing and tending to the headliner fabric. If you positively must clean your headliner, use very little moisture, and never allow it to soak through the outer fabric.
Auto detailing can be a great way to bond with your car, and to make your automotive investment go farther, last longer and look better. Hopefully these Top Secrets of the Auto Detailers will help you and your ride along the way.

How to Apply Car Wash Drying Agent

Giving your car its much deserved washing and polishing can really restore its brand-new look. If you are the type of car owner who is extremely fond of detailing your car, whether by a professional or by yourself, your car will certainly retain a grandeur and cleanliness that masks its mileage. To achieve that splendid look of your vehicle, car wash drying is a technique that not all car enthusiast have yet to mastered.
There’s something incredibly exhilarating about dousing your car in water and seeing the car shampoo and soap work their magic on every square inch of your car. After the final rinse, your car is now ready for the waxing, polishing, and buffing processes. But how do you manage to dry your vehicle immediately and still retain a squeaky-clean post wash surface for waxing?

Car Drying Technique

Car wash drying is tricky if you don’t have the right tools on hand. Even a lint-free, super-absorbent microfiber towel may leave behind swirl marks if you don’t know the correct technique for wiping your car dry. You can allow your vehicle to air dry, but sometimes it just takes too long. You also run the risk of dirtying the car again if you allow it to just sit there, freshly clean but unprotected from dust and other pollutants. Water droplets collect dirt at their base, thus leaving behind ugly streaks on the newly-cleaned surface. Your car will certainly retain more of its shine and luster if you are able to quickly seal in the gloss after a thorough washing. For people who are in a hurry to wax their vehicles or are simply looking for the fastest way to dry their cars, a drying agent should always be included in the car wash supply cabinet.
A drying agent repels water by making the surface of your vehicle hydrophobic or simply “water-fearing”. Instead of clinging to your car, water droplets will simply slide off and down to the ground.
Follow these procedures to dry your car faster and prep it immediately for a good wax:
  • Give your car a final rinse with fresh water to get rid of all residual detergent. The drying agent will not be able to interact properly with your car’s surface if a layer of car soap or shampoo is blocking it. For the same reason, you have to ensure that your car is really, truly clean. Otherwise the drying agent will also be discouraged by residual dirt.
  • Mix your preferred drying agent with water. Follow the package instructions for dilution.
  • Spray the drying agent on your car after the final rinse. It’s best to use a nozzle spray can for this job, because you need to spray the drying agent as fast as possible on every inch of your car. Make sure not to blast your car with the solution because this will lead to the product not sticking properly to your car.
  • Use a chamois cloth or a microfiber towel to mop up any leftover water droplets and really speed up the drying process. You can also use an air dryer if you have one in your supply cabinet.
  • Apply wax according to package instructions. Buff and polish the vehicle accordingly.

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Complete Car Wash Supplies Checklist

Getting your car cleaned, waxed, and polished in a short amount of time is a mean feat. If you have been engaged in DIY car detailing in the past, you know how important it is to have all the tools and products you need at your side when you need them. Car detailing is a little like surgery in this regard, you have to be able to reach for the correct tool without hesitating if it’s the right thing you need at that very moment. For this reason, assembling a complete car wash supplies cabinet is of the utmost importance for any DIY detailer worth his time.
A full and uncompromising array of car wash supplies is just what you need to ensure that life with your beloved vehicle will go on smoothly. Cars do require periodic maintenance and upkeep, but you might not always need the help of a professional detailer to get the job done. As a conscientious and proactive car owner, you have to share in the burden of keeping your car’s looks and functionality in tiptop shape. You will need different items for different cleaning purposes.
The list provided below is by no means exclusive; feel free to swap, delete or add items here and there to suit your preferences. For a budding DIY detailer, these things are definitely essential:

Washing/Rinsing car wash supplies

  • Microfiber wash cloths: stock up on these in varying shapes and sizes because they will come in handy for all sorts of cleaning chores.
  • Car wash shampoo and conditioner: as much as possible, select cleaning products that are environmentally-friendly yet still powerful enough to rid your car of dirt, dust, and grime.
  • Hose with high-pressure nozzle: nothing works quite as good as a high-pressure hose to quickly blast away the dirt from your vehicle.
  • Clay bar: a clay bar will lift away all the residual dirt left on your vehicle. If you think your car is already clean, claying it will make you realize that it isn’t.

Drying car wash supplies

  • Microfiber wash cloths
  • Chamois cloth

Polishing car wash supplies

  • Microfiber cloth
  • Buffer
  • Polishers and waxes

Cleaning specific parts

  • Specialty cleaning products: tire dressing, paint sealant, glass cleaner, degreaser, swirl remover, leather protectant, etc. You need to get one of each if you want to address the dirt problems in specific areas such as your car’s engine block, underbody, wheels or windows.

Miscellaneous car wash supplies

  • Sandpaper
  • WD-40
  • Vacuum
  • Brushes
Set of detailing equipment
img scr:alibaba.com
Putting together a professional detailer worthy car wash supplies cabinet requires time, careful thinking, and money. Of course, you might not need all of these items if you decide to simply let the professionals handle all your car cleaning needs. They might not even need all these various tools and equipment because they use an entirely different technology for cleaning your car.Steam cleaning automobiles has become the next big thing in the auto car industry, primarily because it’s the most efficient and environmentally-friendly cleaning method available in the market today. Even with regular DIY detailing, it’s still a good idea to schedule an appointment with your DetailXPerts detailer every now and then to have your car professionally cleaned.

How to properly detail a car

by B. Leslie Baird

Car detailing may be done by a dealership before the new owner picks up the vehicle. It is also commonly done on used cars before they are sold. Many vehicle owners like to have their cars detailed on a regular basis to keep them in like-new condition. Properly detailing a car is not a difficult procedure and the results can be impressive.
Detailing can involve a quick process of cleaning on the interior of a car or it can include an extensive procedure on the exterior and interior. Begin the job by gathering all the necessary cleaning supplies and choose a day that is suitable for working outside. The work can be done inside a garage if one is available.
Proper detailing supplies can be gathered in an empty five-gallon bucket to help the job go smoothly. Supplies include window cleaner, paper towels or old newspaper and a supply of clean rags. Upholstery cleaner, an upholstery brush or stiff bristled brush, a leather and vinyl protector, and a fabric refreshing spray should also be included. A wet-dry vacuum and a separate container with warm soapy water will complete the supplies for an interior detailing.
Begin by removing all personal items and trash from inside the vehicle. Remove the floor mats and shake any loose dirt from them. If the floor mats are rubber, they can be scrubbed with soapy water and allowed to dry. If they are carpet mats, vacuum them thoroughly and apply cleaner to any spots. Next, vacuum the entire inside of the vehicle including the seats and between the seats.
Windows and mirrors should be cleaned with a quality glass cleaner. Wiping mirrors and windows with old newspaper provides the cleanest shine without towel residue. Do not forget to clean the instrument panel surfaces and door handles as well. As a final touch, cotton swabs can be used to remove any debris stuck in tight spaces.
If the vehicle’s seats are a cloth material, upholstery cleaner can be used to treat any spots. Vinyl or leather seats can be cleaned with an appropriate cleaner. Ensure that the cleaner does not leave the seats slippery. The dashboard, door panels and center console should also be cleaned with the vinyl cleaner and buffed with clean dry rags.
Finishing the seat and carpet cleaning with a light spray of fabric refresher should remove almost all odors. If the interior still does not smell fresh, specialfogging air fresheners are available. Adding a regular car air freshener can help keep the interior odor free and add a personal touch to the vehicle.
Exterior detailing can be a more complex procedure and care must be taken to ensure that the correct products are used to avoid damaging the vehicle’s paint and chrome surfaces. Cars should be washed and waxed in the shade to prevent soapy water or wax from drying too quickly. Micro fiber wash mitts will help reduce fine swirl scratches in the paint surface. Proper detailing of the interior also includes washing the tires and hubcaps and finishing the tires with a tire cleaner - protectant.

Thursday, September 12, 2013

Auto Carpet Steam Cleaning

 


  1. When to Use Steam Cleaning

    • Use a steam cleaner to remove stains or dirt in your car's soft fabrics (seats, floors, etc.) when stains cannot be removed by other methods. Steam cleaning is a method of using a powerful blower and powerful suction to clean deep down in the carpet to pull out dirt, mites and other types of debris that a normal vacuum is unable to remove. Steam cleaners generally use plain water and a subtle cleaning solution. The water and solution are mixed and then poured into the steam cleaning unit. The unit, when powered on, super heats the solution. You then use the attachments to powerfully shoot the steam into areas and knock stubborn dirt and grime loose. Once the dirt has been knocked loose, the steamer will pick it up with its powerful suction ability and store it for disposal.

    How to Steam Clean your Auto Carpets

    • When steam cleaning your car, first you will want to make sure to vacuum the carpets to remove any dirt on the top of your carpet. After you have vacuumed away this first layer of dirt, you should mix your solution and put it into the steamer. Use the steam cleaner the same way that you would on your home carpet to remove the dirt and grime that is deep down in the carpet fibers. You can use the steam cleaner to clean your windows, seat upholstery and floor mats, as well. The ability of the steam cleaner to powerfully blast out underlying scum and dirt that a normal vacuum cleaner misses makes this an ideal use for this piece of machinery.

    Benefits

    • There are many benefits of steam cleaning the carpet in your car. One is that you can make sure to remove all of the dirt and debris from your car in the detailing process rather than just the first layer on top. Second, unlike using the old methods of shampooing the upholstery and carpet in the car to get them clean, steam cleaning does not leave the surface wet for a long period of time. When shampooing, surfaces remain wet for an extended period of time, which can cause mold to grow or floorboards to rust out after many cleaning sessions. With steam cleaning, this is a worry of the past because the steam hardly leaves behind any wet feeling whatsoever while still doing just as good of a job as a shampooer.

    Finding a Steam Cleaner

Care and Cleaning of New Window Tint Film

Care and cleaning of new window film:
  • Rolling windows down: We recommend that you leave your windows up for 48 hours (2 days) after they are tinted. This will allow the film time to adhere to the glass so it will not peel when it is finally rolled down.
  • Drying time: For the first few days after your windows are tinted they will be cloudy, hazy, and you may see little water pockets forming in the tint. This is normal! When windows are tinted, the squeegee can only remove a certain amount of the water from between the film, and the glass. As the film dries, the remaining water will form little pockets. These will simply evaporate and go away by themselves. The amount of time before your new tint will be totally dry is determined by the amount of sunlight it gets. If it's cloudy and overcast outside, it will take longer, if it's hot and sunny, then the film dries very quickly.
  • Cleaning: After your windows are tinted, you need to wait a couple of days to clean them. Basically, you do not want to risk pulling the tint loose, before it has a chance to dry. Once your vehicle has been tinted the windows will have been lightly wiped down, but will probably need a proper cleaning. A soft paper towel and any non-ammonia cleaner (do not use the blue "Windex with ammonia D", or any blue colored cleaners because they usually have ammonia in them).  You can use: Vinegar Windex (Green), or any of the citrus Windex's,. There are other cleaners made specifically for tinted windows such as Eagle One's 20/20. which are very good. In addition you can use soap and water, vinegar and water, or really anything without ammonia or abrasives.
outside view of store


Note from Marty: I NEVER use Windex. I have cleaned cars and I know when my customers might have used Windex to clean their windows. It leaves a nasty residue and it takes me twice as long to clean the windows. I personally recommend Invisible Glass

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Experimenting With Clay Bar

August 30, 2013 | Posted by wpadmin

I would like to discuss some of the various applications of clay bar. For those who might not know already, “clay bar” is a piece of clay specifically designed to remove various substances from the car’s paint. This include pieces of metal, tree sap and paint overspray. The repeated use of clay bar (I like to do it once a month of my car) gives and maintains that “factory” shine.
Now, when I first started using it, I was exclusively using it for cars’ paint. I love Mothers’ products. I’d get the kit which comes with 2 bars, the spray and a towel. The process is pretty straight forward:
  1. Wash and completely dry vehicle
  2. Flatten the piece of provided clay to make it easier to work with (you may also wish to break it apart in two to get the most of each piece)
  3. Rub the clay bar on the area you sprayed
  4. If the clay bar sticks of is leaving behind residue (the bars I use are yellow and therefore they leave behind yellow residue), apply more spray.
  5. The clay bar will pick up dirt/debris. Therefore it is important for you to keep turning the clay to use the clean parts of it
  6. Wipe off with the microfiber towel
  7. Use a dry towel to remove any extra spray left over
I started experimenting on other parts of car. I found great results when I used it on the windows to remove dead bugs, tree sap, etc. However, instead of using the spray I used Invisible Glass Cleaner. You can still use the spray. However, I do not like doing so since it is much like spray wax and it may leave a greasy film on the windows. Sure, this can be removed but you would just be adding an additional step to the process. In cases when I run out of the provided bottle of Mother’s spray, I switch to regular Spray-On Wax (I prefer Turtle Wax). Once you saturate the area, you repeat the same steps as above.
Before the clay bar
It also works miracles on chrome bumpers and front grills. The main thing I believe merits repetition is that the area must be soaked with the spray (or wax) you use. Otherwise, the clay bar will leave residue behind and this might be difficult to remove. The last thing you would want is to leave the area you are working on looking worse than before you started working on it.
After using clay bar
Once the clay bar reaches its “maximum capacity” (it will be very dirty) you can use it to clean your wheels. Sometimes I have had a particularly hard time removing the brake dust/grime from the wheels. The best part is that the clay bar is not at all damaging on any type of wheel. I have used it on aluminum hubcaps and chrome wheels and have seen really good results with both. You may also use it to clean the painted area within the wheel well.  Again, the same steps as above would be repeated to clean any of the parts I have discussed.
Marty is originally from Bulgaria. He came to the US at the age of 15. He lived in Syracuse for 15 years. He has customers in Buffalo, Syracuse and Binghamton. He worked as a car washer/detailer for a Saturn dealership in the Syracuse, NY area for over 2 years. He loved cleaning cars and after leaving Saturn, he decided to pursue his passion.  Marty has had many satisfied customers over the years.What makes him stand out from the competition is that he will come to your house and do your vehicle in a place of your choosing.
All photos courtesy of Martin Kostadinov