Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Angie's LIST Guide to Maintaining your vehicle's appearance

Car washes
Getting your car washed and waxed on a regular basis is one of the easiest ways to preserve its paint and keep it looking nice. Not only does it provide a point of pride for you, the driver, regular car washes help slow down the normal wear and tear that every vehicle’s exterior undergoes. Removing other environmental contaminants such as road salt, sap, tar and bugs in a timely manner also goes a long way to making your car’s paint and clear coat last longer.
But many wonder: How frequently should I wash my car? The answer depends first of all on personal preference and the vehicle you own. If you just purchased a brand-new luxury vehicle that still fumes with “new car” smell, you might want to wash your vehicle as frequently as once a week to keep it shiny and bright. But if you’re driving a beat-up rust bucket of truck, you may never wash your car.
black corvette Angie's List
Other factors like dark paint colors that show dirt and grime easily, can factor into how frequently you wash your car. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Walter K.)
For everyone else in the middle of those two extremes, a number of factors can influence the decision:
Driving conditions: Do you live in a rural area with gravel or dirt roads or driveways? The dust kicked up and caked onto your paint means you’ll want to wash your car more frequently.
Season: The grime and dust from road salt in the winter can do corrosive damage to your vehicle’s underbody and paint. Hitting bugs in the summer can have a similar effect.
Parking location: If you’re not fortunate enough to park your car in a garage every night, parking underneath trees that drop sap or in areas prone to gatherings of birds that drop bird stuff should convince you to wash your car often.
Commute distance and conditions: If your daily commute involves long distances on the highway, your car’s exterior will be exposed to more road grime and bug strikes than a vehicle with a short non-highway commute, necessitating washing your car more frequently.
At a minimum, it’s a good idea to get your vehicle washed at least every two to three weeks to keep dirt and grime from building up on the exterior. If your drive involves the conditions mentioned above, you may want to wash your vehicle more frequently.
Tips for washing & waxing
Many drivers opt for the convenience of a drive-through or automatic car wash. However, not all car washes are created equal. In fact, some automatic car washes – especially those that use rotating brushes or agitating cloths - can damage your vehicle’s paint.
Brushes or cloths that are too firm or contain built-up dirt or debris can actually scratch your vehicle. It takes research on the driver’s part to avoid damaging car washes by asking the car wash operator about how often the brushes or cloths are cleaned or replaced. If they’re changed infrequently or not at all, consider taking your vehicle elsewhere or using a different style of car wash.
mobile car wash Angie's List
Some auto detail shops offer the option of washing and detailing your car in your driveway. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Luis D.)
Car washes that offer hand washes, hand washing your vehicle yourself or having your vehicle hand washed by an automotive detailing shop are all options to avoid damage from automatic car washes.
If you choose the DIY route, follow these steps to get the deep clean you’re looking for:
1. Pick the right spot
Avoid washing your car in direct sunlight or on a hot day. When you wash a car on hot day in direct sunlight, the water will dry very quickly, which can leave spots on the paint surface.
2. Check your water
The main ingredient in a car wash is obvious: water. But are you using the right kind of water? If your water is “hard” or high in mineral content, you may want to use a self-service car wash or avoid washing your car yourself altogether. Hard water also has a tendency to leave spots on the paint surface as it dries.
3. Get the right materials
Use a soap or detergent product made for washing cars, not dish soap. Dish soap can remove or cloud wax and polish coatings, detracting from the finish of the car. You can find the right materials, including car wash detergent, sponges, washing mitts and microfiber towels for drying at your local automotive retail store.
4. Spray it down
Start the process by spraying down the car with a garden hose, preferably with a car wash attachment or a higher-pressure nozzle. You can also use a pressure washer if available, but be careful to use a low pressure setting, as water under high pressure can actually blast away the protective clear coat or paint. Spray down the car thoroughly to remove any excess or heavily built-up debris.
5. Soap it up
Mix your auto detergent and water in a bucket in the ratio described on the bottle. Using too much soap can leave a cloudy surface or excessive water marks. Using your sponge or wash mitt, give the car a good scrubbing starting with the roof and working your way down. If the water in the bucket gets too grimy, change it out for fresh soap and water if necessary.
6. Rinse and repeat
Now that you’ve got your car’s body cleaned up nicely, make sure to rinse all those soapy suds as thoroughly as possible. You may want to repeat the process on areas that are particularly vulnerable to grime and bug junk such as the front grille. Next, repeat the process on the vehicle wheels using a heavy brush; using specialty tire grime cleaners is also an option.
7. Towel it off
Before the now-rinsed vehicle has a chance to dry, use a microfiber or other soft cloth towel to soak up any remaining moisture. Be sure to use a towel made from a lint-free fabric to prevent your car’s surface from becoming a lint trap.
8. Wax the ride
After giving your car a nice wash, it is time to go to the next step and do a wax to keep the vehicle as beautiful as possible. There are a number of factors to take note of when it comes to waxing a vehicle, and these factors start with the kind of wax you use. Different wax options include liquid, soft, hard and polymer. Polymer is different in that it is not a wax but another material that claims to hold up longer than wax. Liquid wax is easy to apply but does not last as long, while hard wax takes a longer time to apply but can stay for a long period. Soft wax falls between liquid and hard wax in terms of ease of use and duration.
Most waxes will include an applicator pad, but a soft cloth rag can be used if applicator pads are not available. Get some of the wax on an applicator or cloth rag and apply in vertical motions, going back and forth over the vehicle until a slight haze shows up. Use a microfiber cloth with no pressure to remove the haze of the wax. Apply and remove hard waxes by section to keep the hard wax from hardening too much, and be sure to exercise caution when breaking away hard wax deposits in case you waited too long for the hard wax to dry.
Auto detailing
By hiring an auto detailing company, you can largely avoid the possibility of damage to your vehicle as well as protect its appearance and value. One common misconception about auto detailing work – which can include washing, waxing and detailing the exterior and vacuuming, deep cleaning and detailing the interior – is that the service is prohibitively expensive.
However, if you consider that a washing, waxing or detailing work performed by a professional will significantly extend the life and improve the appearance of your vehicle, along with the fact that over the long term it can help retain the vehicle’s resale value, having the work done can prove to be a worthwhile investment.
The cost for many detailing services such as basic washes or interior cleanings can start at less than $100. More comprehensive services such as full exterior or interior details can cost several hundred dollars, while more advanced processes such as paint color correction or ding, dent or chip repairs may cost thousands.
engine bay detailing Angie's List
Engine bay detailing is an option that can help increase your car's value at resale (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Anthony M.)
Consider some of the benefits to having a professional provide detailing work for your car:
1. Improved resale value, higher selling price
A vehicle that’s been well maintained will always demand a higher selling price and this holds true for its appearance, too. An exterior that’s been cleaned and waxed regularly will show less wear and tear and the paint and clear coat will be more durable in the long run. Inside, regular thorough detailing such as vacuuming every nook and cranny and shampooing the carpets will help a car hold its new-car feel.
2. Convenience
Not only will you save yourself the time and hassle of washing, waxing and vacuuming your car by hiring a detailing professional, it can also be more convenient. Many auto detailing shops off pick-up and drop-off services as well as mobile detailing so your car never has to leave the driveway.
3. Fewer penalties when returning a leased vehicle
When returning a leased vehicle, lessees can often be penalized for not keeping up maintenance on the vehicle including the paint job and interior and upholstery. Having these items detailed on a regular basis can be an investment that saves you from ponying up cash for lease-return penalties.
4. Faster sale turnaround
Everybody loves that “new car” look, feel and smell – even if they’re buying a used car. A car with a recent thorough detail will sell faster than one that hasn’t been cleaned by a professional.
5. Peace of mind
Spills happen. Getting a professional to help remove any spills, stains or other accidents using tried-and-true methods not only saves you elbow grease, it also ensures the stain or spill has been removed or neutralized as effectively as possible.
Tips for paint problems
No matter the vehicle, every car is susceptible to the dangers of the roads. Flying road debris kicked up by other drivers’ tires, door dings in parking lots and corrosive road salt are just a few dangers most drivers and their cars encounter on a regular basis. Try these tips if you’ve noticed minor imperfections in your car’s exterior
1. Minor dents or dings
The key to removing a dent or ding is to apply a force that’s equal and opposite to the force that damaged the metal. Some repairs sometimes be accomplished by pulling sharply on the panel with a bathroom plunger, but more often, dents have to be pounded out from the back side with special tools. For smaller dents or dings, ask your auto detailer if they offer paintless dent repair; larger dents or dings should be repaired by an auto body shop.
blue jaguar Angie's List
Tackling minor paint imperfections, especially for older vehicles, can significantly improve resale value. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Dabney T.)
2. Minor scratches
Repairing a minor scratch in the paint involves removing a small amount of paint in the surrounding area. Since minor scratches are relatively shallow and may only penetrate the clear coat even penetrate to the pigmented paint layer. In that case, you need to apply a rubbing compound and gently buff or until the scratches are no longer noticeable.
If there’s a significant amount of minor scratches over a wide area of the car’s body, more comprehensive and costly repairs may be necessary.
3. Major scratches
Larger or deeper scratches typically penetrate several layers of paint or all the way to the sheet metal beneath the paint. If a scratch penetrates all the way to the base coat or bare metal, it can't be buffed out. Applying a small amount touch-up paint can prevent rust damage, but the only way to really fix the problem is to reapply new paint, which may be best accomplished by auto painting specialist or body shop
4. Swirl marks

Swirl marks are typically scratches that were caused by an overenthusiastic buffing job. If you lean into a power buffer, it’s very easy to leave rough scratches that take the form of ugly swirl marks.

The easiest way to remove swirl marks is to use a dual-action polisher with foam pads. The key is to remove the smallest amount of paint necessary to eliminate the swirl scratches.

(from: http://www.angieslist.com/auto-services/car-washes-auto-detailing.htm)

Preserving Your Car's Paint Finish

By Steve Ford - The Car Guy®

As we are into a new century, it is easy to reflect on the advancements that have occurred since 1900 and how significant advancements are in science, medicine and technology that are reported virtually every day.
Just a few decades into this past century several of the world's most visionary individuals used to spend hours together camping and recreating away from their stellar careers. As they were enjoying the chances to witness their achievements reaching the masses, Henry Ford, Thomas Edison and Harvey Firestone used to sit for hours together socializing in the humble outdoors. During those visits, each one of them reportedly coveted their shared openness to ideas about what the future of technology would bring for humanity.

To a certain extent, the contributions of each of these individuals helped prepare subsequent generations for the incredible succession of inventions and "possibilities" that would follow in this century.

So, what's this have do with waxing and automobile paint finishes? Well, it seems that Edison and his sidekicks did such a good job of opening up our expectations that we're almost too easy on "new inventions."

Take "clear coat" paint finishes, for example. Some people have believed that if a car has one of these clear coat paint jobs on it, it never needs waxing.

Well, hey, why not a no-wax car paint? We've walked on the moon -- been there, done that! And some cars can go '100,000 miles between tune ups' today. I like the idea, too, of never having to get out there and rub that wax again. But it isn't so -- at least not yet.

Even 'clear coat' paint finishes need the protection afforded by periodic waxing -- and, of course, so do so-called "conventional" (regular enamel and lacquer) paint finishes. But let's move in for a closer and more specific look at today's topic of car wax and preserving your car's paint finish.



The Enemies




It's not that clear coat finishes are not helpful on automobile paint finishes, they are a great improvement in paint "technology." And we'll come back to clear coats in a moment. What's more important right now is recognizing that the foes to your car's paint, with or without a clear coat finish, still haven't changed -- and they're pretty formidable. Let's start with the biggest one:

o THE SUN
Oh, yeah, the sun. UVA rays and all that stuff. Thought you'd heard enough about how important it is to protect your skin from the sun? Good. Now it's holistic car care -- cars have skin, too, you know. And your car's paint finish breathes and even has pores! In the hot sun the paint's pores expand and can absorb more dirt and moisture.


o BIRD DROPPINGS
From that gargantuan ball of fire to those pretty little tweeting birds. When we go out for picnics we look for nice shade trees with no ants and no ... birds (at least above us). Great. How about when parking that car? Bird droppings are highly acidic and can erode paint and clear coat paint finishes. A couple of my exotic-car owner pals have even made cracks about watching out for "low altitude air-to-surface missile" raids when driving by Santa Barbara's lovely bird sanctuary!


o SAP FROM TREES
It's easy to think about those times you've discovered the clear sticky blotches of tree sap. They seem like magnets for other particles of dirt, dust and grime -- unless you remove them quickly (which you should do!). But more importantly, a lot of trees can drop small mist-like droplets on your car's paint -- the kind of sap that you can't see unless you look very closely. Again, in hot sun this stealthy foe of tree sap will bake into the pores of the paint surface and can leave stains.


o SALT AIR
"But I love the smell of that ocean air!" OK, but do you know what your car's paint thinks of living in Santa Barbara? "Nice views and great weather, pal, but this salt in the air isn't doing much for that 'mirror-like' sheen you expect from me!" your paint would tell you. "Especially when the sun's out and with that 'terrific ocean breeze' combined with salt in the air, boss," it would go on to say. "Salty moisture all over me -- yuck!"


AIRBORNE CONTAMINANTS
Even though Santa Barbara has much higher air quality than many larger metropolitan areas, there are airborne particles in our air that can damage our cars' paint surfaces. By-products from construction, small manufacturing operations and even your own home chimney can contribute floating elements into the air that threaten your car's paint finish.




The Friends




o GARAGES, PARKING STRUCTURES AND CAR COVERS
Any time you can park your car in the shade (without that shade coming from a sappy tree) you're contributing to longer life for your car's paint finish. If you're a stickler for protection and are willing to take the time to use one -- a car cover made of cloth or synthetic material is a great investment, especially if you don't have access to a garage.


o CLEAR COAT PAINT FINISHES
Back to the clear coat paint finishes. Since the late 1980s and with increasing prevalence since about 1990, car companies have been using so-called clear coat paints as final "sealers" on new cars. As the term indicates, the clear paint is used as a protective film over the pigmented (colored paint) base paint layer. When applied at the factory, the clear coat paint is applied as the final step to the car's finish to enhance paint luster, depth and protection from the elements. Yet, it is not a substitute for wax because it can still (1) breathe, (2) erode, and (3) absorb moisture, collect grime and stains (tweeting and sappy tree droppings) on its surface.


o WAX
Good ole wax. Through the test of time, there's that loyal and humble friend to your car's paint. It works -- it helps clean, enhance and prolong luster, creates a thin protective film to help insulate from the elements ... and some waxes even have, yes, sunscreens!


(from: http://www.thecarguy.com/articles/waxtips.htm)

Auto Detailing Guide - Polish

Overview 

Polishing is the step in the detailing process that yields the most dramatic difference in your paint's appearance. The objective of polishing is to remove imperfections in the clear coat that cause the paint to look dull. Surface imperfections can include swirls, scratches, water spots, etchings, industrial fallout, oxidation, etc. These surface imperfections cause light to fragment instead of passing directly through the clear coat yielding less gloss and depth. When these imperfections are removed, you will reveal the true potential of your vehicle's paint.
A swirl mark is a very thin and shallow scratch on the surface of your paint, that often comes from washing and drying improperly. Waxes, sealants and most glazes will not permanently remove these surface imperfections at best they will hide them temporarily. To eliminate these imperfections safely and permanently you want to polish the surface starting with a less aggressive polish and using more aggressive polishes as needed. The chemical polishing agents and/or the polishing particles will safely remove the extremely fine imperfections.

Frequency 

We recommend only polishing as needed, which is typically around one to two times per year during a full detail. After a thorough multiple step polishing process has been completed you can maintain the finish properly using the correct washing and drying products and techniques. Keeping the paint in good condition will ensure it needs less frequent polishing.

Why Use a Buffer? 

While you can polish by hand, it is highly recommended to use a quality buffer for maximum results. When you remove imperfections in your paint, you are working in polishing particles thoroughly and evenly. To do this by hand, you need to use a fair amount of pressure while moving the pad rather quickly. To put it in perspective, the standard in the industry for buffers is the Porter Cable 7424 XP. This buffer can generate 6,800 oscillations per minute at full speed very safely and effectively. Imagine trying to move your arm 6,800 times per minute for hours on end, all while exerting 10 - 15 lbs of pressure on the applicator pad. It's impossible to duplicate by hand and it can be tiresome to do a small fraction of this work by hand.
Another main advantage of a buffer is its ability to work with various pads that help increase the polishing power. For example a blue pad is extremely soft so it's used for extremely fine polishes, but if you use an orange pad it's more dense and can work in a medium cutting polish extremely well. Best of all these pads all use the same hook and loop backing so you simply slap them on and pull them off with ease and no tools are needed. Below we will outline some of the most popular buffers for detailers and what pads and polishes they work great with. There is no one best buffer and there is no one best combination of pad and polishes, however our recommendations come from years of experience and consistently yield excellent results.
To see a comparison of the technical specifications between buffers please check out our Buffer Comparison Chart below.

Buffer Comparison Chart

BufferTypeSpeed DialComes WithSpecificationsCompatible Backing Plates & Pads
Porter Cable 7424XP
Porter Cable 7424XP
Random orbital
  1. 2,500 OPM
  2. 3,400 OPM
  3. 4,200 OPM
  4. 5,000 OPM
  5. 5,900 OPM
  6. 6,800 OPM
  • 6" Pad w/permanent backing plate
  • Instructions manual
  • Side handle
  • Built in 5" counterweight
  • Wrench for backing plate
  • 4.5 Amps
  • 2500 - 6800 OPMs
  • 5.75 lbs
  • Spindle Thread 5/16-24
  • Speed Dial (1 - 6)
  • 90 day guarantee, 1yr mfg & 3yr parts warranty
Rupes LHR 21ES 21MM
Rupes LHR 21ES 21MM
Random orbital1,700 R.P.M. - 4,200 R.P.M.Built in 6" backing plate
  • 500 watt output
  • Stroke size: 10.5mm offset, created a 21mm orbit diameter
  • Machine weight: 5lbs 8 oz
  • Spindle Mounting hole: 8mm x 1.25mm female thread
  • Soft Start guarantees an acceleration ramp to prevent accidental dispersion of compound unwanted
  • New ergonomic front handle
  • The electronic feedback control maintains speed constant in all applications
Rupes LHR 15ES 15MM
Rupes LHR 15ES 15MM
Random orbital1,700 R.P.M - 4,800 R.P.M.Built in 5" backing plate
  • 500 watt output
  • Stroke size: 7.5mm offset, creates a 15mm orbit diameter
  • Machine Weight: 5lbs 5oz
  • Spindle mounting hole: 8mm x 1.25mm female thread
  • 1 year warranty
  • Made in Italy
Meguiar's G110v2
Meguiar's G110v2
Random orbital
  1. 1,800 opm
  2. 2,800 opm
  3. 3,800 opm
  4. 4,800 opm
  5. 5,800 opm
  6. 6,800 opm
  • Meguiar's canvas bag
  • W68DA Soft Buff 2.0 DA 6"" Backing Plate
  • 5.5 lbs
  • Thread size: 5/16" - 24
  • 45 degree exit cord
  • Easy side-port access for quick brush changes same as most professional rotary buffers
  • Upgraded extended wear brushes
  • New rubber cord with upgraded cord assembly
  • Internal feedback circuit increases torque when downward pressure is applied
Griot's Garage 6 inch 3rd Generation
Griot's Garage 6" 3rd Gen.
Random orbital
  1. 2,500 OPM
  2. 3,360 OPM
  3. 4,220 OPM
  4. 5,080 OPM
  5. 5,940 OPM
  6. 6,800 OPM
6" DA backing plate included
  • Powerful 7-Amp, 850-Watt Motor
  • 2,500 - 6,800 Orbits Per Minute
  • Variable Speed, Wider RPM Range
  • Wider 5/16" orbit pattern for faster and better results
  • Ergonomic Adjustable Handle
  • Available with 10' or 25' cord
  • Lifetime Warranty from Griot's
Griot's Garage 3 inch
Griot's Garage 3"
Random orbital3,500 to 10,000 OPM's3" DA backing plate included
  • 240 Watt motor
  • 3,500 to 10,000 OPM's
  • Soft start, constant speed feature
  • An ergonomic built-in grip at the head of the unit
  • Heavy duty cord
  • Steel bevel gear drive for smoother operation
  • A standard style backing plate with a 5/16" shaft
  • Lifetime Warranty from Griot's
Flex XC 3401 VRG
Flex XC 3401 VRG
Forced random orbital
  1. 3,200/160 OPMs/RPMs
  2. 4,500/200 OPMs/RPMs
  3. 5,800/270 OPMs/RPMs
  4. 7,000/330 OPMs/RPMs
  5. 8,300/400 OPMs/RPMs
  6. 9,600/480 OPMs/RPMs
  • Instructions manual
  • 5.5" backing plate
  • Handle
  • Alan wrench
  • 7.5 Amps
  • 3200 - 9600 OPMs
  • (160 - 480 RPMs)
  • 5.75 lbs
  • Variable speed trigger
  • Lock-on button locks the trigger
  • 1 year mfg warranty
Flex PE 14-2 150
Flex PE 14-2 150
Rotary600 - 2100 RPMsSide handle included
  • 10 Amps
  • 880 Watt
  • Tool Fixture: 5/8"
  • 5.6 lbs
  • Speed without load: 600-2100 rpm
  • Overload protection
  • 1 year mfg warranty
Makita 9227C-X3
Makita 9227C-X3
Rotary
  1. 600 RPMs
  2. 900 RPMs
  3. 1,500 RPMs
  4. 2,100 RPMs
  5. 2,700 RPMs
  6. 3,000 RPMs
  • Makita 9227C
  • Wool and blended pad
  • 6" backing plate
  • Makita nylon tool bag
  • Bail and side handle
  • Hex wrench & centering post
  • 10 Amps
  • 600 - 3000 RPMs
  • Spindle thread 5/8" - 11 UNC
  • 6.6 lbs
  • Variable speed trigger w/lock on button
  • 1 year mfg warranty

Porter Cable 7424

The Porter Cable 7424 XP (PC 7424 XP) is often referred to as the standard in the auto detailing industry. We've yet to come across a buffer at a lower price point that has enough power to effectively work in polishes like the Porter Cable 7424 XP can. This is one of the main reasons why the PC 7424XP is our best selling buffer.
The PC 7424XP is great for both experienced professionals and first time users. The first benefit many detailers notice is the lower price point which makes it affordable to just about all. It is also incredibly easy and safe to use so brand new users can expect excellent results with their first detail. The PC 7424 XP is a random orbital buffer, which means it oscillates rather than spins. This helps reduce the amount of heat generated on the paint and is very safe to use. Even at full speed, the risk of damaging your paint is virtually zero.
Pros:
  • Low cost compared to other quality buffers on the market
  • Very safe to use at any speed
  • Easy to control and maneuver
  • Can be used with almost any hook and loop pad
Cons:
  • Can not remove some scratches and deeper imperfections
  • Backing plate not included
 

Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Using Dish Soap to Wash Your Car...

Ever been tempted to squirt some dish soap into your car-washing bucket? After all, it's safe for dishes, so it's safe for your car, right? DO NOT EVER wash your car with dish soap - it's meant to strip everything off . dishes, and that's what it will do to your car's paint. Use a product specifically for vehicles. Share this with anyone you know who washes with Dawn.